In her book “Colombiana,” Mariana Velásquez explains that Colombian empanadas are almost always deep-fried—not baked, as Argentinian empanadas are—creating deeply golden, extra-crisp crusts that conceal any number of fillings. A savory mixture of potatoes and ground beef, flavored with alliums, fresh chilies, tomato and spices fill these fantastic empanadas, an adaptation of her recipe. The dough is not traditional, but Velásquez says it is much easier to work with than the classic version made with masarepa (a type of corn flour). This dough combines all-purpose flour and corn flour. Don’t mistake cornmeal or cornstarch for corn flour; the latter is made by grinding dried corn to a powder so fine that it’s floury. Bob’s Red Mill is a widely available brand. (To add to the confusion, masa harina is yet another type of ground corn product, and not the type to use here.)
You will need a 4-inch cutter to stamp out circles of the rolled dough. If you don’t own one, improvise with an inverted plastic deli container. Serve the empanadas warm with the Colombian spicy green salsa called ají.
Don’t over-moisten the edge of the dough when filling and forming the empanadas. Too much water will have the opposite effect — it will cause the dough to slip on itself instead of adhere. Once the empanadas are filled, they need to rest.
The fresh, spicy green salsa, called ají, is a ubiquitous offering on the Colombian table and practically a requirement for serving with empanadas. This recipe makes 2 cups.
Makes 2 dozen 3½-inch empanadas
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE FILLING:
- 8 ounces Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
- Kosher salt and ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, divided
- 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 2 jalapeño chilies, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
- 4 medium garlic cloves, minced
- 12 ounces ripe tomatoes, halved and grated on the large holes of a box grater, skins discarded
- 8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
- 2 tablespoons ground cumin
- 1 tablespoon ground coriander
- ¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
FOR THE DOUGH AND FRYING:
- 390 grams (3 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 124 grams (1 cup) corn flour (see headnote)
- 1 teaspoon table salt
- 170 grams (12 tablespoons) salted butter, melted and slightly cooled
- 480 grams (2 cups) plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
- About 2 quarts grapeseed or other neutral oil
FOR THE SPICY GREEN AJÍ:
- 4 scallions, finely chopped
- 1 jalapeño chili, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
- 1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
- ⅓ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
- 3 tablespoons white vinegar
- 1 tablespoon lime juice
- Kosher salt
TO PREPARE
FILLING
STEP ONE. in a medium saucepan, combine the potatoes, ½ teaspoon salt, and 6 cups water. Bring to a boil over high and cook until a skewer inserted into the potato meets no resistance, 15 to 18 minutes. Drain in a colander, shaking to remove as much water as possible, then return the potatoes to the saucepan.
STEP TWO. Set the pan over low and allow the potatoes to dry for about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, add 1 tablespoon butter and, using a potato masher, mash until the mixture is mostly smooth; set aside.
STEP THREE. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Stir in the onion, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and softened, about 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the paste begins to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the jalapeños, garlic, and grated tomatoes, followed by the ground beef, cumin, coriander, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook over medium-high, breaking the beef up into small bits, until the meat is no longer pink and the mixture begins to sizzle, about 15 minutes.
STEP FOUR. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the mashed potatoes and stir until fully integrated, then stir in the cilantro. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a medium bowl and cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until chilled while you make the dough, or for up to 24 hours.
DOUGH
STEP FIVE. To make the dough, in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, mix both flours and the salt on low until combined, about 30 seconds. With the mixer running on low, drizzle in the butter, then add the yogurt. Mix on low until a smooth dough forms, about 5 minutes; if there are still dry bits at the bottom of the bowl, mix in water 1 tablespoon at a time until the bits are integrated and the dough is smooth. Lightly flour the counter, then turn the dough out onto it.
STEP SIX. Briefly knead the dough, forming it into a ball. Divide in half, form each piece into a 6-inch disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
STEP SEVEN. When you are ready to form the empanadas, remove the dough from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes to soften slightly. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with kitchen parchment. Lightly flour the counter, then, using a rolling pin, roll one portion of dough into a round about 1/16 inch thick. Using a 4-inch round cutter, cut out 12 circles from the dough, gathering the scraps and re-rolling the dough as needed. Place the circles on one of the prepared baking sheets, overlapping them slightly to fit; cover with a kitchen towel. Repeat with the second portion of dough.
STEP EIGHT. Remove the filling from the refrigerator. Have ready a small bowl of water. Set one dough circle on the counter. Mound 4 teaspoons filling onto the center of the lower half of the circle and, with your fingers, slightly flatten the mound, keeping the edges of the dough clear. Using your finger dipped into the water, very lightly moisten the edge of half the dough circle along the arc closest to you. Fold the unfilled side over the filling, aligning the edges and forming a half moon; lightly press on the filling to flatten it slightly and remove any air pockets. Press the edges with your fingers, then with the tines of a fork to create a secure seal and a decorative edge. Place the empanada on the second prepared baking sheet. Using the remaining dough circles and filling, form additional empanadas. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or for up to 2 hours.
STEP NINE. To fry the empanadas, set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and set it near the stove. Pour oil into a large (7- to 8-quart) Dutch oven to a depth of about 1½ inches and heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F. Carefully lower 6 empanadas into the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the empanadas to the prepared rack. Return the oil to 350°F and cook the remaining empanadas in the same way. Serve warm with ají.
AJÍ
STEP 10. In a medium bowl, combine the scallions, chili, bell pepper, cilantro, vinegar, lime juice, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or for up to 1 day.
