On Season Six of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television in an episode titled “Breakfast Baking,” Milk Street cook Bianca Borges shows Christopher Kimball how to make this twist on the beloved cinnamon bun.
Swedish kardemummabullar are soft, rich yeasted buns with an aromatic butter, sugar, and cardamom filling. This recipe does require a bit of time and willingness to roll, measure, cut and shape the buns. We think it’s worth it. Despite being rich with butter, milk, and an egg yolk, the dough is remarkably easy to handle.
It’s essential to use cardamom seeds that you have ground yourself. Preground cardamom doesn’t come close to having the same flavor, aroma or visual appeal. Be sure to purchase decorticated cardamom seeds—seeds that have been removed from the thick, fibrous pods—and grind them in a mortar with a pestle or pulse them in an electric spice grinder to a mix of powder and tiny flecks.
For the dough’s first rise (the bulk fermentation), we use a 9-by-13-inch baking dish as the container. This allows the dough to cool more quickly once it’s in the refrigerator. It also makes the dough easy to roll into a rectangle for filling because it takes on the shape of the baking dish. If you wish to make the buns over the course of two days, the ideal stopping point is after putting the dough in the refrigerator; it can remain there for up to 24 hours before rolling, filling, shaping, and baking.
Leftover baked buns, if you have any, will keep for up to three days in an airtight container; they reheat well in a 350°F oven for 5 to 8 minutes.
Don’t overheat the milk, and be sure the butter has cooled after melting. The 20-minute kneading time in the mixer warms the dough, so making sure the milk and butter are not too hot will prevent the dough from overheating, which can adversely affect the yeast.
Makes 16 buns
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE DOUGH:
- 390 grams (3 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 103 grams (3⁄4 cup) bread flour
- 80 grams (6 tablespoons) white sugar
- 1 tablespoon instant yeast
- 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, ground (see headnote)
- 3⁄4 teaspoon table salt
- 1 1⁄4 cups whole milk, warmed to 100°F
- 113 grams (8 tablespoons) salted butter, melted and cooled
- 1 large egg, separated, white refrigerated in an airtight container and reserved for brushing
FOR THE FILLING:
- 170 grams (12 tablespoons) salted butter, room temperature
- 163 grams (3⁄4 cup) packed light brown sugar
- 2 teaspoons cardamom seeds, ground
- 27 grams (2 tablespoons) white sugar
TO PREPARE
DOUGH
STEP ONE. In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix both flours, the sugar, yeast, cardamom, and salt on low until combined, about 30 seconds.
STEP TWO. In a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, combine the milk and butter. With the mixer running on low, gradually add the milk mixture to the dry ingredients, followed by the egg yolk. Mix on low until the ingredients form a rough, sticky dough, 2 to 3 minutes.
STEP THREE. Increase to medium-low and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and pulls away cleanly from the sides of the bowl, about 20 minutes. The dough should be supple and soft to the touch; it also will feel warm.
STEP FOUR. Mist a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Scrape the dough into the baking dish and press it with your hands to flatten it into an even layer that is as thin as possible. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until just shy of doubled in size, about 1 hour. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
FILLING
STEP FIVE. When you are ready to fill, shape and bake the buns, make the filling. In a medium bowl, mash together the butter, brown sugar, and cardamom until well combined; set aside.
STEP SIX. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with kitchen parchment. Lightly flour the counter and turn the chilled dough out onto it with a short end nearest you; try to maintain the rectangular shape. Lightly dust the dough with flour and roll it into a 12-by-16-inch rectangle of even thickness, occasionally flipping the dough to ensure it is not sticking. Spread the filling in an even layer on the dough, all the way to the edges.
STEP SEVEN. Fold the top third of the dough down over itself, then fold the bottom third up. Rotate the dough so a short side is nearest you and roll the dough once again into a 12-by-16-inch rectangle of even thickness. Rotate the rectangle so a long side is parallel with the counter’s edge. Using a metal bench scraper or pizza wheel, trim the short sides to create straight lines; discard the scraps. Cut the dough crosswise into 16 even strips.
STEP EIGHT. Pick up one strip by the ends and gently stretch it to about 16 inches by gently “bouncing” it against the counter while very gently pulling on the ends. Twist the ends of the strip in opposing directions while gently stretching it to create a loose spiral about 16 inches long. With one end of the strip held in place by your thumb against your index, middle and ring fingers, wrap the strip around your 3 fingers without untwisting the spiral, then tuck the end under and up into the center while sliding out your fingers to create a turban-shaped knot. Pinch the center of the bottom of the bun to seal so the coil does not unwind during baking. Place on one of the prepared baking sheets.
STEP NINE. Shape the remaining dough strips in the same way, arranging 8 buns on each baking sheet, placing them in 2 outer rows of 3 and an inner row of 2, for staggered spacing.
STEP TEN. Drape a kitchen towel over each baking sheet or cover lightly with plastic wrap and let rise until the buns are nearly doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 1⁄2 hours (timing depends on the temperature of the dough as well as the ambient temperature in the room).
STEP ELEVEN. While the buns are rising, heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle position. In a small bowl, use a fork to beat the reserved egg white with 1 tablespoon water. When the buns are nearly doubled in size, lightly brush each on the first baking sheet with egg white, then sprinkle with half of the white sugar. Bake until the buns are deep golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes; it is normal for some filling to seep out and caramelize on the baking sheet. Meanwhile, brush the remaining buns with egg white and sprinkle with the remaining white sugar.
STEP TWELVE. When the buns are done, cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack. Bake the buns on the second baking sheet in the same manner. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
