Tuesday, November 8, 2011 at 6:06 PM
Boar isn't as commonly eaten in the U.S. as it is in Europe, but it is gaining popularity. High in protein, low in fat, with distinct and versatile flavor, boar meat has another plus for food writer Lynda Balslev: It rekindles memories of a family trip to Italy.
Related ArticlesConfessions Of A Sriracha Fanatic
More than just a one-note hot sauce, this magical elixir has a depth of flavor to match its heat.Boar Ragu With Pappardelle
From the Kitchen Window columnCountry Pate With Boar
From the Kitchen Window columnRoasted Boar Leg
From the Kitchen Window columnBoar Stew With Prunes And Armagnac
From the Kitchen Window column
"Mom, there are shotgun pellets in my ragu" is not usually what you want to hear as you start dinner. On a family trip to Italy last summer, though, it was not entirely unexpected in the middle of an excursion to the Umbrian countryside, where we were immersing ourselves in all things local. It happened at a members-only eating club, discreetly placed on a tiny side street in the incongruously suburban neighborhood of Panicarola, near Castigliano del Lago. We got reservations through a club member whose villa we were renting.
We fasted all day in anticipation of our meal. We knew there would be a fixed menu served family-style, comprising numerous antipasti, a pasta dish, a main course, side courses and dessert, all accompanied by local Umbrian wine, coffee and a selection of grappa. The pappardelle smothered with wild boar ragu was so delicious, I didn't mind picking the pellets out for my son.
Since this trip, we often talk about this meal, particularly the wild boar ragu. While wild boar is native to northern and central Europe, where it's considered a food staple, it's less commonly eaten in North America.
Spanish explorers introduced boar as food to North America in the 16th century, and in the 20th century, boar were brought to the U.S. for the sport of hunting. Now, wild boar are found across the country, with populations concentrated in Florida, Texas and California. Generally, the boar are considered exotic pests because they are not indigenous and often wreak havoc on fields and vineyards. Despite their bad rap, boar meat has become increasingly popular in restaurants and with home chefs for the simple reason that boar meat is lean, rich in protein and tasty.
Boar meat tastes like a cross between pork and lamb. Like most game, it's well suited for stews, ragouts and braises. It marries well with fruit, spirits and spices such as juniper and cloves. It provides more protein than beef or pork, and less cholesterol than chicken. Because boar meat is so lean, it doesn't contribute much fat to stews (unlike beef chuck or pork shoulder), while it adds a distinctive yet not overwhelming meaty flavor that stands up well to aromatic ingredients. If using boar meat in a dish that relies on some meat fat, such as pate, be sure to combine it with another fatty meat, such as pork shoulder.
You don't have to hunt to get boar meat. It can be ordered from a butcher, specialty stores carrying game meat often sell frozen boar meat, and there are online sources for mail order. The meat will be farm- or ranch-raised boar. Try to find ranch-raised boar. The flavor of the meat will be more distinctive, reflecting the animals' natural habitat where they freely forage, unlike farm-raised boar, which are more confined and grain-fed.
One of our favorite souvenirs from traveling is the memory and re-creation of recipes we enjoyed. Lately, I have been buying boar meat online and storing it in my freezer so it's on hand for an easy pasta dinner or winter stew. Now, when the topic of our Umbrian trip comes up, it's less of a distant memory, since we can prepare the boar ragu at home. The only thing that's missing is the shotgun pellets. [Copyright 2011 National Public Radio]
This article is filed in: Food, Recipes, Arts & Living
The French honor the patron saint of baking with cream-filled cake topped with caramelized sugar.
From Science Fiction To Fact, Robots Are Coming To A Farm Near You
Some dairy farms use high-tech robot milking machines that also clean udders and monitor cow health.
Vermont Beer Makers Bring Back Old-Time Maple Sap Brews
Late season maple sap was used in a potent beer that cooled farm workers in the heat of summer.
Even Your Mother Will Approve Of Vegetable Chips
These baked, seasoned crisps are so tasty and colorful, you might not miss those fried potato chips.
Jetlagged By Your Social Calendar? Better Check Your Waistline
The disconnect between our social calendars and our biological clocks is creating 'social jet lag.'
News updates from WGBH