Beer has been brewed for 7,000 years. With the advent of big breweries, the process became more of a science, with the focus on producing it fast and cheap. But the art of brewing has been taking off in recent years, as small breweries focus on so-called craft beers, which emphasize special recipes and unusual ingredients.
Massachusetts has seen more of these smaller breweries pop up around the state. There are now more than 80 facilities of this nature, up from 45 in 2011.
Company founder Bryan Greenhagen thinks the growth in craft beers fits into a larger trend.
“It doesn’t seem to be just beer,” he said. “It seems to be our food culture in general which was mass-produced and continues to be mass produced, but the interest in not-mass-produced things just continues to grow.”
It’s a trend Greenhagen, armed with a Ph.D., loves. He’s proud his beer is different, even something of an acquired taste.
“Lemony, peppery, a little wine-y, typically drier,” he said.
In recent years, this niche market has been growing about 20% a year, far outpacing the growth rate of traditional beer.
“Our beer is definitely a little bit different,” Greenhagen explained. “It’s not, ‘Let’s go get a case of cans,' it’s maybe having some respect for the beer, especially to notice how the flavor profiles go very well with food to make dinner better.”
Restaurateur Max Toste serves dozens of craft beers at Deep Ellum in Allston. He says New England has been on the leading edge of experimentation and production of special brews.
“There’s a real demand for artisanal products,” Toste said. “I think Boston, specifically being an international city with a lot of students, a lot of people who are hungry for new culinary experiences, both food, wine and beer, and otherwise. There’s a real market for it.”
That allows brewers in in Chelsea, Framingham, and beyond to prosper. They are able to take advantage of a beer palate that is becoming more sophisticated.
“I think what’s great about the craft beer scene is that people are starting to realize they can spend their money on what is good,” Toste said. “You know, I think that quality is going to win over quantity.”
All this attention for a product that starts with just four basic ingredients: water, barley, yeast, and hops.
Adding his personal stamp to that is what gives Greenhagen so much satisfaction.
“Yeah, we’re not getting rich by any means, but I like it a lot,” he said. “Yes, it’s great.”
Many of the local breweries offer tours and tastings.
