Letter from Stockholm: A Chef Cooks His Way from Maine to Waltham and from Italy to Sweden

By Cathy Huyghe

It’s a classic story. Young man leaves home. Young man finds a passion and follows it, despite obstacles and obstructions in his path. Young man discovers peace and, finally, a home of his own.

Jesse Marsh’s story is like that.

Chef Jesse Marsh prepares to plate a serving of his slow-braised beef cheeks alongside spinach risotto with taleggio chese. Marsh is in the kitchen at Terrenos Vinotek in Stockholm. Photo: Cathy Huyghe

Marsh grew up just outside Bath, Maine, moved to Somerville as a young adult, and found his passion while cooking at the Tuscan Grill in Waltham. He followed that passion all the way to a self-sufficient organic farm in Umbria where he cooked, made wine, harvested olives, slaughtered sheep, and cured cheese.

“The kind of food we were making there wasn’t about technique,” Marsh said. “It was about attentiveness and time.”

In Umbria Marsh also met his soon-to-be-wife, who is part Swedish. Today they live in Stockholm and Marsh is the chef at Terrenos Vinotek wine bar and restaurant, where his menu reflects the same philosophy of attentiveness and time.

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