Sevan Bakery has the feeling of an Old World European neighborhood market. Inside there is always at least one member of the Chavushian family - mother Margrit, father Kaprel, and brothers Nuran and Murat.  It makes sense as this is truly a labor of love for the Chavushians. The father purchased the market in 1985 after arriving in Massachusetts from Turkey in1979. Having little knowledge of running a food market, he compiled his family recipes and introduced them to the market. He still works at Sevan Bakery, but his sons have taken over the running of the business with their mother continuing to work several shifts behind the counter. "The big boss is my mother,” says Nuran with a smile.

People from all over the neighborhood come in looking for specialty items, spices, olives, nuts, and, of course, the wonderful prepared foods. Positioned right behind the cash register, Nuran can see who enters, who is browsing the aisles, and who needs assistance selecting from the delicious assortment of feta cheeses from around the world, baklava, and other spreads and baked good behind the glass display case. However, the most striking element of his vantage point is the large window behind the cash register, where Nuran, a man with boundless energy and a wicked sense of humor (essential traits when you have a family business that's open fort welve hours a day, six days a week), can look outside and see who's coming and going down Mt. Auburn Street. He's waving and smiling at people he knows and if he doesn't know you yet he's fairly confident he will meet you soon.

I learned so much about the different eats offered at Sevan Bakery. From Armenian string cheese to what makes a Bulgarian feta (a great choice to eat sliced with tomato, basil, and some balsamic vinegar) different than a French feta (a subtler flavor perfect for making boregs). It wasn't until I visited Nuran that I learned that theTurkish and Armenian dish imam bayildi literally means, “imam fainted.” Legend has it that the imam of the village tried this stuffed eggplant dish and passed out because it tasted so good. Or did you know that karniyarik, which we make on the show, means stomach? Because, well, you are again stuffing a “stomach-shaped” eggplant. Even the popular lahmejune, or Armenian pizza, means “meat with dough.” I felt like the more food I ate, the more I would be able to converse in Armenian!

 

Sevan Bakery is one of several different Armenian markets in Coolidge Square. It is such a treat to stop in to see what each one offers and get a taste of an old world European neighborhood market, especially with owners like the Chavushians happy to answer your questions and actively preserving the heritage of the cuisine.